A Gentleman’s Silk & Cotton Abba (Abaya/Bisht) Commissioned for the Palestinian Market – Aleppo-Syria, The Ottoman Empire,Late 19th Century

Identification Number: 624
Reserved

Description

This exquisite late 19th to early 20th-century gentleman’s silk abaya (also known as abba or bisht) was hand-loomed in Aleppo, Syria, and commissioned specifically for the Palestinian market.

Crafted from silk, cotton, and metal-wrapped thread, it features elaborate embroidery and is a rare example of Levantine textile artistry.

Historical and Cultural Significance:

The abaya (cloak) is a unisex garment and arguably the most iconic form of traditional Arab dress.

This particular example represents the luxurious silk abayas commissioned by wealthy Bedouins and urban elites from leading textile centres such as Aleppo, Homs, and Damascus.

These garments were often made for special occasions—weddings, ceremonial appearances, or as diplomatic gifts presented to high-ranking officials.

This gentleman’s cloak is distinguished by its traditional structure, typically composed of two sections: usually the lower part is left plain, without decoration, while the upper section is richly adorned.

The decoration often consists of two finely worked geometric motifs—sometimes with vertical stripes or patterns that culminate in a triangular shape at the top.

These embellishments are usually executed in golden tones to contrast elegantly with the base colour of the abaya.

In some cases, as seen in our current lot, the design features a stylized wheat-head plant motif, a symbol commonly associated with prosperity, protection, and socio-religious identity.

Such symbolism would be positioned prominently along the wearer’s back, signifying status and meaning.

Syrian Abayas & Palestinian Fashion:

For centuries, Syrian fabrics were highly sought after across the Muslim world, including in Palestine. Both men and women wore these lavish garments, as documented in historical photography.

The Syrian abaya was considered a status symbol—luxurious, fashionable, and expensive.

Palestinian society, particularly in urban centres, often adopted Syrian textiles to create culturally resonant garments.

Our current lot, with its fine silk and intricate decoration, was most likely made for an important event, possibly intended for the groom to wear on his wedding day.

Please see below, a vintage black and white photo showing two Palestinian woman wearing a Syrian Silk Abaya.

Dimensions

The Abaya is of a rectangular form.
129 cm height.
100 cm width.

Condition

Very Good condition.
Few small storage stain marks.

Provence

The UK Art Market.

References

Museum Comparisons & Provenance:

Similar examples of silk abayas can be found in prestigious museum collections, including:

The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met), New York, USA.

Please see the similar silk Abbas which some of which were found in old-Palestine.

Abayah, Accession No. C.I.42.140.1 (Gift of Jessie Rosenfeld, 1942).
Abaya, Accession No. C.I.56.6.8 (Gift of Alan L. Wolfe, 1956).
: Abayah Accession Number: C.I.42.140.1, (the gift of Jessie Rosenfeld, 1942).

•For a related Abaya please see the Catalogue of the Exhibition of the Palestinian Costumes at the British Museum from November 1989-December 1991, with the collaboration of Dr El-Nimr & Shelagh Weir.
Please see the similar Abba at the Men’s Costume section Room 9, catalogued on pages 17-19.

The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A), London, UK
A comparable hand-loomed Syrian robe, embroidered with silk and metal thread and dated to 1876, is illustrated in:
Persian Art: Collecting the Arts of Iran for the V&A by Maya Carey, 2017
ISBN: 978-1-85177-933-8
Item: V&A:883-1877, featured on page 131.
In our view, this particular abba may have been produced in Syria or possibly reproduced in Iran under similar stylistic influences.

For Similar and related Syrian Aba or Bisht Please see the Following:

Costumes from the Arab World, in the Tariq Rajab Museum, by Jehan S. Rajab, P.O.BOX: 6156. 32036 Hawally, Kuwait, ISBN: 9948-8514-0-4,
Please see the Syrian Aba catalogued on page 43.