Collection of Four Palestinian Wedding Jackets (Taqusireh), The Ottoman Empire – Bethlehem, Late 19th Century.

Identification Number: 625
Reserved

Description

This exquisite collection features four traditional Palestinian wedding jackets, known as Taqusireh, crafted in Bethlehem during the late 19th century under the Ottoman Empire. These jackets were traditionally worn over a bride’s wedding dress and are a testament to the region’s rich textile traditions.

Historical Significance and Craftsmanship

Taqusireh jackets were crafted with luxurious materials imported from across the Ottoman Empire and beyond. Silk and Heremzi fabrics came from Syria and Egypt, Rumi linen from Greece, and Anteri silk from Persia via Turkey. Some experts even suggest that silk was imported from as far as the Atlas Mountains in North Africa.

Jacket Descriptions

  1. First Wedding Taqusireh:
  • Colour: Wine-coloured silk velvet with cotton purple lining fabric.
  • Embroidery: Gold metallic thread accented with pink, red, blue, orange, and yellow.
  • Design: Known as the “taqusireh mushajjara” or “arboreal jacket” for its palm leaf and floral motifs.
  • Dimensions: Width (including sleeves): 68 cm; Height: 48 cm.
  • Condition: Excellent.
  1. Second Wedding Taqusireh:
  • Colour: Black or charcoal silk velvet with blue silk lining.
  • Embroidery: Silver metallic thread accented with orange, red, blue, turquoise, and green.
  • Design: Also called “taqusireh mushajjara,” featuring floral, zigzag, and endless knot motifs.
  • Dimensions: Width (including sleeves): 84.5 cm; Height: 45 cm.
  • Condition: Excellent.
  1. Third Wedding Taqusireh:
  • Colour: Turquoise blue Ottoman Anteri silk with plain turquoise lining.
  • Embroidery: Gold metallic thread accented with red, blue, green, purple, and yellow.
  • Design: Features tulips and floral motifs woven into the fabric, with a large star or radiant sun motif on the back and floral wreaths on the front.
  • Dimensions: Width (including sleeves): 74 cm; Height: 48 cm.
  • Condition: Excellent.
  1. Fourth Wedding Taqusireh (with Handbag and Head Cap):
  • Colour: Beige or off-white silk, likely Syrian or Persian, with plain off-white lining.
  • Embroidery: Gold metallic thread accented with purple, orange, and yellow.
  • Design: Known for its floral embroidery and four long palmettes on the front. Includes a matching handbag and head cap.
  • Dimensions: Jacket width (including sleeves): 77.5 cm; Height: 49 cm.

Handbag: Height: 18 cm.

Dimensions

The First Wedding Taqusireh:
Width including the short sleeves: 68cm, the hight: 48 cm

The Second Wedding Taqusireh:
Width including the short sleeves: 84.5cm, the hight: 45 cm

The Third Wedding Taqusireh:
Width including the short sleeves: 74cm, the hight: 48 cm

The Fourth Wedding Taqusireh:
Width including the short sleeves: 77.5cm, the hight: 49 cm
The cylindrical bag’s dimensions are: the hight 18 cm * the round shape base 11 cm.
The cap’s dimensions are: the hight 9 cm * the round shape base 18 cm.

Condition

All four jackets are in near-mint condition, likely because they were worn only once on the wedding night and carefully preserved as sentimental keepsakes.

Provence

Both the European and the UK Art Markets.

References

For various related wedding jackets Taqusireh please see the following:

Palestinian Costumes, by Shelagh Weir, Published for The Trustees of The British Museum, By British Museum Publications, 1989, ISBN: 0-7141-1597-5. Please see similar lots catalogued on page 77 & 155.

Palestinian Costume, by Jehan S. Rajab, Published by Kegan Paul International, London & New York, 1989, ISBN 0 7103 0283 5. Please see plates exhibited on page 42 & 46.

Traditional Palestinian Embroidery and Jewellery, by Abed Al-Samih Abu Omar, 5th. Edition, Jerusalem 2005, please see Pages 23, 24, 30, 31, 33 & 34.

For related examples, please visit the collection of the Palestinian Heritage Foundation, West Caldwell, NJ 07007-0531, USA.

For other related examples please see, Embroidering Identities, A Century of Palestinian Clothing, By Iman Saca in Collaboration with Maha Saca, The Oriental Institute Museum of the University of Chicago, 2006, ISBN: 1-885923-49-X. Lot catalogued on page 27.

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