Description
This exceptionally rare Palestinian Jillayeh, or coat-dress, dates back to the late 19th century during the Ottoman Period in Bethlehem, Old Palestine.
The shape of this Jillayeh resembles 17th-century Mughal hunting coats, but it utilises a unique kantha-style stitching technique that makes the fabric appear thick and creased.
To the best of our knowledge, this is the first published example of a Bethlehem garment featuring this distinctive kantha-style stitching.
Key Features:
- Cultural Fusion: While the Jillayeh’s shape is inspired by both Mughal and traditional Palestinian coats, it also incorporates both of Indian and traditional Palestinian techniques.
- The exterior is made from red-wine-colored cotton, and the interior is lined with indigo-blue linen, with kantha-style stitching giving it a quilted, creased effect.
- Bethlehem Embroidery: The Jillayeh features Qasab Coaching embroidery, typical of Bethlehem, with gold thread and scarlet cords adorning the edges, chest, lower skirt, and back with floral and whirlpool motifs.
- Kimono-Like Design: The coat’s design is akin to a flattering kimono or long jacket, fastening at the bust with cords or a button.
- Exquisite Craftsmanship: The coat is adorned with fine couched embroidery panels, especially on the upper front, sleeve ends, and a square plastron chest panel (qabbeh), similar to the Royal dress (Thobe Al-Malak) from Bethlehem.
Please compare that identical hand stich and couching technique used on the borders of the qabbeh of the following example of (Thobe Al-Malak) translating to the Royal dress which is made in the Bethlehem area.
Dimensions
Dimensions:
139 cm in height and 40 cm in chest width.
Condition
Condition:
Very good, with minor storage marks on the backside.
Provence
The European Art Market
References
References: This piece has been vetted by leading experts and confirmed to originate from the Bethlehem area.
For further readings on related Palestinian embroideries such as the Al-Malak Dress from Bethlehem and other Palestinian Embroideries please refer to:
Embroidering Identities: A Century of Palestinian Clothing by Iman Saca in collaboration with Maha Saca, The Oriental Institute Museum of the University of Chicago, 2006, ISBN: 1-885923-49-X. Lot catalogued on page 14.
Palestinian Costumes by Shelagh Weir, Published for The Trustees of The British Museum by British Museum Publications, 1989, ISBN: 0-7141-1597-5. Similar lots catalogued on pages 130-131.
Palestinian Costume by Jehan S. Rajab, Published by Kegan Paul International, London & New York, 1989, ISBN 0-7103-0283-5. Plates 11 & 12 exhibited on page 38.
Traditional Palestinian Embroidery and Jewellery by Abed Al-Samih Abu Omar, 5th Edition, Jerusalem 2005, Pages 20-29 Lot 505.
The exhibition L’Orient Des Femmes-II, Women from the East at the Museum of Quai Branly, Paris, France, 2011.
The collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, USA, and the Birmingham Museums & Art Gallery in Birmingham, UK.
The Newark Museums & Art Gallery, Newark, New Jersey, USA.
The Museum of International Folk Art exhibited at the University of New Mexico, USA.
The Palestinian Cultural Exhibition held in July 1990 at the Brunswick Town Hall, Sydney Road, Brunswick, Victoria, Australia, courtesy of the Australian Palestinian Heritage.
