Description
This exceptionally rare Palestinian Jillayeh, or coat-dress, dates back to the late 19th century during the Ottoman Period in Bethlehem, Old Palestine.
The shape of this Jillayeh resembles 17th-century Mughal hunting coats, but it utilises a unique kantha-style stitching technique that makes the fabric appear thick and creased.
To the best of our knowledge, this is the first published example of a Bethlehem garment featuring this distinctive kantha-style stitching.
Key Features:
- Cultural Fusion: While the Jillayeh’s shape is inspired by both Mughal and traditional Palestinian coats, it also incorporates both of Indian and traditional Palestinian techniques.
- The exterior is made from red-wine-colored cotton, and the interior is lined with indigo-blue linen, with kantha-style stitching giving it a quilted, creased effect.
- Bethlehem Embroidery: The Jillayeh features Qasab Coaching embroidery, typical of Bethlehem, with gold thread and scarlet cords adorning the edges, chest, lower skirt, and back with floral and whirlpool motifs.
- Kimono-Like Design: The coat’s design is akin to a flattering kimono or long jacket, fastening at the bust with cords or a button.
- Exquisite Craftsmanship: The coat is adorned with fine couched embroidery panels, especially on the upper front, sleeve ends, and a square plastron chest panel (qabbeh), similar to the Royal dress (Thobe Al-Malak) from Bethlehem.
Please compare that identical hand stich and couching technique used on the borders of the qabbeh of the following example of (Thobe Al-Malak) translating to the Royal dress which is made in the Bethlehem area.
“In 2011, the Museum of Quai Branly in Paris – France, had held an exhibition of L’Orient Des Femmes-II, Women from the East, which had featured a very similar example within the exhibited collection that likely had the closest look-alike example, with embroidery that was very similar.
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