Fine Bethlehem Style Wedding Royal Dress (Thobe Abu Qutbeh-Aswari), Circa 1920-1930s, Old Palestine (British Mandate Period)

Identification Number: 629
Reserved

Description

This exquisite dress is crafted from hand-loomed silk with cotton taffeta called “Heremzi,” likely originating from Aleppo, Syria, and possibly made in Al-Ezariyeh (Bethany) near Jerusalem.

The main fabric features a “Qasabiyeh” translating to the bamboo pattern of narrow, parallel stripes in black and yolk colors, with alternating thin lines of red, green, and white.

“Thobe Abu-qutbeh” translates to “father of stitches,” referring to the fine stitches that join the various parts of the dress.

The dress has a rounded neck with a short center front opening, finished with two tasselled silk ties and long sleeves that widen towards a pointed end.

The chest, sleeves, and sides of the thobe are patched with alternating atlas silk panels, the shoulders are patched with turquoise atlas silk panels and red silk velvet on the front.

The sleeves have two orange panels with a red center, while the sides of the lower skirt feature two red atlas panels with a grey center.

These sections are beautifully embroidered using the Bethlehem couching technique with double (Habkeh) stitches and appliqué (Tishrimeh) or zigzag patterns.

The dress is richly adorned with scarlet cord embroidery in silk and metal thread, accented with silk threads in shades of pink, blue, turquoise, purple, white, orange, and green.

The embroidered motif, called “Mushajjara,” is inspired by natural, floral designs and includes three birds on each sleeve and on the lower part of the skirt’s backside.

The square plastron chest panel (Qabbeh) is densely couched with silk and silver thread, decorated with floral patterns.

Silver-wrapped threads and silk are also embroidered and couched on the sleeves, the triangular shaped panels on each side, and the lower backside of the skirt, with all edges finely embroidered.

Dimensions

Dimensions:

Height: 128 cm
Chest width including the sleeves : 83 cm
Lower skirt width: 83 cm

Condition

Condition:
Very good, with minor storage stains and a mark on one sleeve.

Provence

The European Art Market.

References

References:

For other similar Jerusalem area Embroideries Abu Qutbeh (Aswari) dress please see:

Palestinian Costumes, by Shelagh Weir, Published for The Trustees of The British Museum, By British Museum Publications, 1989, ISBN: 0-7141-1597-5. Please see similar lots catalogued on page 238-239.

A similar example can be found at the collection of the Palestinian Heritage Foundation, West Caldwell, NJ 07007-0531, USA.

Traditional Palestinian Embroidery and Jewellery, by Abed Al-Samih Abu Omar, 5th. Edition, Jerusalem 2005, please see related examples exhibited on Pages 12-15.

For Similar Bethlehem-Style Wedding Dress at the MET Collection, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York-USA.

Please see the similar embroidered cotton and silk lady’s wedding dress:
Lot Accession No. 2008.274.2.

Lot Accession Number: 1990.106, (the gift of Helen C. Tomkins, 1990).

And for an almost identical embroidered cotton and silk lady’s wedding dress please see lot Accession Number: 1978.243, (the gift of Mr. & Mrs Arthur S. Rudd. 1978).

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