Exceptionally Rare and Important Palestinian Short-Sleeve Coat-Dress Jillayeh / Jubbeh or Durra’a Galilee or Nazareth Area, Old Palestine – Ottoman Period, Circa 1860–1880

Identification Number: 632
Reserved

Description

Our current collection of fine Palestinian embroiders shall proudly be concluded with this extraordinary rare and exquisite garment of Palestinian embroidered coat-dress, known as a Jillayeh or Jubbeh Durra’a, for some might consider it as one of the most sought-after and collectible pieces of Palestinian women’s garments.

Originating from the Galilee or the nearby town of Nazareth, where Jesus Christ was raised, this garment dates back to the Ottoman Period of the late 19th century.

Materials & Craftsmanship

 The intricate hand-stitched embroidery uses vibrant, natural dyes.

The Jillayeh is crafted from indigo-dyed linen or cotton and adorned or appliquéd with multiple atlas silk or satin fabric patches or panels in red-wine, olive-green, and yolk-yellow colors.

The front and back shoulder areas is appliquéd with unusual dark orange linen fabric.

The front is open and can be fastened at the abdomen with two buttons.

The triangular shaped sides of the jillayeh and the lower back is richly embroidered with mainly cross-stitched silk threads in multiple colors such as red, blue, white, yellow, and olive-green, forming geometric patterns.

The atlas satin patches or appliquéd panels on the front feature geometric designs running from top to bottom, including the front corners and the ends of the short sleeves.

The various parts of the Jillayeh are stitched together with zigzag strips in alternating colors of white, blue, yellow, and red.

The front opening is embellished with wide rectangular ribbon from top to bottom also appliquéd on the main linen fabric, these patterns used alongside the jillayeh openings consist of alternating squares and confronted triangles are decorated with patchwork in vibrant colors of wine-red, green, yolk-yellow.

 Other geometrical patterns and chevron ribbon panels are appliquéd on a confronted way to each side of the opining of the jillayeh and are decorate with cut or pierced appliquéd pattern into various geometric and V-shaped motifs.

 Also, the chest area of the jillayeh is appliquéd with additional multicoloured alternating triangles or terra-like patched motifs in yolk taffeta, red and yolk-yellow satin appliquéd fabrics.

Dimensions

128 cm height.
83 cm width of the chest.
83 cm width of the lower skirt

Condition

Very good condition, with few little stains or storage marks, the white cotton strings used to fixate the appliquéd satin pieces on the linen are still available.

Provence

The UK Art market.

References

For almost identical and other related Jillayehs please see:

Palestinian Costumes, Embroidery in a Rainbow of Colors, E. Kleidman Collection, by Rachel Hasson, the L.A. Mayer Museum of Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1997.
Please see the almost identical Jubbah catalogued on page 12.

Palestinian Embroidery, by Shelagh Weir, Published for The Trustees of The British Museum 1970, ISBN: 0-7141-1508-8, please see similar djillayeh catalogued on pages 15-17..

Palestinian Costumes by Shelagh Weir, British Museum Publications, 1989, ISBN: 0-7141-1597-5., for similar Jillayehs please see related models exhibited see pages 80-85.

For other related Jillayeh please see the following:

Palestinian Costumes, Embroidery in a Rainbow of Colors, E. Kleidman Collection, by Rachel Hasson, the L.A. Mayer Museum of Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1997.
Please related Jubbah catalogued on page 12.

Palestinian Embroidery, by Shelagh Weir, Published for The Trustees of The British Museum 1970, ISBN: 0-7141-1508-8, please see similar djillayeh catalogued on page. 15.

For Similar Nazareth Jillayeh at the MET Collection, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York-USA. For an almost identical embroidered cotton and silk embroidered cotton and silk lady’s Jillayeh Please see: Accession Number: A. 1955.86.920,

Please also see (the Museum of International Folk Art, the gift of Florence Dibell Bartlett, A.1955.86.920, Object No. A.1955.86.920), Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505, USA.

For another almost identical embroidered cotton and silk lady’s Jillayeh please see the Nazareth coat (Jillayeh) at the collection of the International Folk Art Museum-El Paso, 1211 Montana Av. TX 79902 El Paso. Texas, USA.

The Pervious-collection of Yasser Barakat Gallery in Jerusalem.

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