Palestinian Costume: Hebron Region Wedding Thob, Circa 1900s, Ottoman Period.

Identification Number: 630
Reserved

Description

This remarkable Palestinian embroidered thob from the Hebron region (Al-Khalil) is a prime example from the early 1900s.

Likely from the Ottoman period, it stands out due to its heavy construction from multiple early materials, including the use of various indigo-dyed linen, naturally vegetable-dyed atlas silk patching, and extensive silk embroidery.

The thob is long and wide, featuring a round-shaped neck with a V-shaped opening at the center.

It has narrow sleeves composed of various atlas silk-colored panels probably hand loomed in Aleppo-Syria, in yolk, light brown, black, striped orange with white and purple, similar to the Gazan style but on the other hand the silk embroidered sections are reminiscent of early Galilee thobs.

Probably made as a wedding gown, the central part of the dress is appliquéd down to the Qabbeh (chest area) and shoulders.

 The front features atlas silk panels in orange, brown, and green, with the central section depicts a long vertical ribbon decorated with various patched geometrical forms of confronted triangles bordered by lines of orange atlas silk depicting small triangles.

This design appears on the sides of the lower embroidered section at the back of the skirt, the upper border of the Qabbeh, the edges of the upper shoulders, the lower ends of the sleeves, and the overall lower edges of the skirt.

 Additionally, two horizontal appliquéd brown ribbons in two shades of light brown silk atlas are patched on each side of the central ribbon, decorated with a series of V motifs stitched onto the main linen fabric.

The heavily embroidered sections, including the square-shaped Qabbeh on the chest, the sides, and the lower parts of the backside, are stitched with fine silk threads in red, white, blue, orange, pink, grey, purple, and yellow, mainly decorated with geometrical motives, stars, steps, and cross like motifs probably of a Christian influence.

Dimensions

Height: 145 cm

Chest width including sleeves: 134 cm

Lower skirt width: 88 cm

Condition

Condition:

Generally in good condition, with a few very small holes and a minor tear on the white-striped orange atlas silk patch on the top of the left shoulder.

Provence

The UK Art Market

References

References:

For similar and related Hebron area wedding dresses, see:

Costumes from the Arab World by Jehan S. Rajab, Tariq Rajab Museum, Kuwait, ISBN: 9948-8514-0-4 (Hebron thob on page 36).
 
Palestinian Costume by Jehan S. Rajab, Kegan Paul International, London & New York, 1989, ISBN: 0 7103 0283 5 (Plate 43 on page 68).

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