Palestinian Costumes, An Important Palestinian Sleeve Coat-Dress (Jillayeh) or Jubbah Durra’a, The Nazareth or Galilee Area, Old Palestine-The Ottoman Period, Circa 1880s AD.

Identification Number: 631
Reserved

Description

This Jillayeh is considered by many collectors on the field of Palestinian embroideries is one of the most sort after and collectable piece of Palestinian lady’s garment is the Jillayeh or Jubbeh which was made around the 1880s in the Galilee area.

 The very classy garment is made out of dark linen indigo dye which was only achievable by the multiple dying process of the linen fabric with silk and cotton taffeta patchwork and silk velvet with cross stitch embroidery.

The front of the garment is open and can be attached from the top by a button.

Each side of the front opining of the Jillayeh is appliquéd from below to top with wide rectangular shaped chevron pattern ribbon of alternating arrow like heads of patched fabrics on the dress’s linen fabric of yolk-color silk with cotton taffeta and various silk velvet pieces of red, purple and olive-green colors.

The end edges of the short sleeves are also appliquéd with the same motifs.

Whereas the inner edges of the front chevron ribbons are bordered with alternating triangular or terra like patched motifs of the same materials of yolk taffeta, red, purple and olive-green fabrics.

The triangular shaped heavily stitch embroidered sides of the Jillayeh is stitched with zigzag strip of alternating colors of white, blue yellow and purple.

The lower side of the skirt is heavily stitch and embroidered with natural vegetable dyes of different colors of red, purple, green, yellow, white and blue, the main theme of the decoration is of geometrical designs.

The central plain upper part of the backside is patched from the inside with a heart-shaped appliqué motif.

Dimensions

Height: 133 cm
Chest width including sleeves: 95 cm
Lower skirt width: 80 cm

Condition

Condition: Generally, in good condition, with few scattered minute holes and a minor tear with later embroidered repair with red silk on the upper margin of the silk stitched area of the lower part of the backside skirt.

Provence

The UK Art Market.

References

References:

For related Jillayeh please see:

Palestinian Costumes, Embroidery in a Rainbow of Colors, E. Kleidman Collection, by Rachel Hasson, the L.A. Mayer Museum of Islamic Art, Jerusalem, 1997.

Please related Jubbah catalogued on page 12.

Palestinian Embroidery, by Shelagh Weir, Published for The Trustees of The British Museum 1970, ISBN: 0-7141-1508-8, please see similar djillayeh catalogued on page. 15.

 For Similar Nazareth Jillayeh at the MET Collection, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York-USA. For related embroidered cotton and silk embroidered cotton and silk lady’s Jillayeh Please see: Accession Number: A. 1955.86.920,

Please also see (the Museum of International Folk Art, the gift of Florence Dibell Bartlett, A.1955.86.920, Object No. A.1955.86.920), Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo, Santa Fe, New Mexico 87505, USA.

For another related embroidered cotton and silk lady’s Jillayeh please see the Nazareth coat (Jillayeh) at the collection of the International Folk Art Museum-El Paso, 1211 Montana Av. TX 79902 El Paso. Texas, USA.

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